HHO Development - Frequently Asked
Questions"
 |
What are the safety issues
associated with Water4Gas technology?
How do I find the right wire to
splice on my MAP / MAF sensor?
How much HHO does the HHO Generator produce?
Do I need a MAP / MAF sensor
Enhancer?
What is an Oxygen Sensor Extender?
How Does an O2 Sensor
Work?
How many HHO generators do I
need?
Will the HHO Generator or MAP / MAF
Enhancer void my warranty?
What do I do in freezing
weather?
Is this technology dangerous?
Why are 2 cells better
than 1?
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Safety Issues: HHO gas is
extremely volatile and dangerous.
a. Do not light HHO directly or indirectly (bubbles) with
a match!
b. Do not generate HHO with your generator without the vacuum hose attached.
c. Do not experiment with HHO generation in a closed area; keep your
experimenting area well ventilated.
d. Use check valves with your hoses.
e. Do not run your generator with the motor not running.
f. Keep the water level no less than 2.5'' from the top of the jar.
g. Wear safety goggles when working with HHO.
h. Do not connect your HHO generator to your battery without a fuse!
Always use a relay.
i. Make sure the cathode (-)( which produces Hydrogen) and the anode (+)
(which produces Oxygen) wires in your generator are not touching.
j. Use common sense!
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Connecting the MAP
/ MAF Enhancer: The MAP / MAF sensor has 3 to 6
wires coming out. The MAP sensor usually has 3, and the MAF sensor usually
has 5 or 6. The wire we are interested in is the "Signal Wire" to the ECM
(Electronic Control Module) or vehicle's computer. This wire will have 0.9
to 1.1 volts running thru it at idle and will constantly vary. If you rev
the engine up you will see an increase in the voltage reading. Once you
have located the "Signal Wire", you must splice it. Now, you have one end
that goes to your sensor (a) and one end that goes to your computer (b).
Your HHODevelopment Enhancer has three wires coming out: (1) a ground wire
(black), (2) a Brown wire - outgoing to the ECM, and (3) the Red wire -
Incoming from the MAP / MAF sensor. Simply connect the ground wire to a
grounded location and (1) to (a) and (2) to (b).
To
find the MAP Sensor Signal Wire, use a Circuit Tester like the one above to find
the correct wire. You can hook this tester in series with your multi-meter to
find the actual voltage of the wires coming out of the MAP Sensor. The correct
wire is the one with the lowest voltage or the one with a voltage that varies
when the engine RPM is increased.
Read the MAP / MAF
Installation instructions for full details.
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HHO Production -
There are many variables which must be known to
answer this question. These variables include: (a) Surface area of
the anode and cathode, that is, the number of spirals within the generator,
(b) the amperage delivered to the HHO Cell. This depends on the vehicles
alternator and the amount of electrolyte mixed with the distilled water.
The amount of electrolyte used is directly proportional to the current or
amperage produced, (c) the type of electrolyte used. The most
common type of electrolyte used is Arm & Hammer baking soda. However, the
most effective electrolyte is potassium hydroxide or "caustic potash".
This electrolyte acts as a catalyst and is not used up during hho generation.
Caution: This electrolyte is very hazardous and should only be used under
special circumstances. (d) the distance between the anode and the
cathode. The optimal distance is about 1/4'', (e) the temperature
of the electrolyte - the higher the temperature the greater the current that
flows through the cell. To adjust for this, you must use less baking soda
or potassium hydroxide which will then reduce the amperage through the cell to a
safe level. (f) Finally, add more cells to your system.
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Do I need a
MAP / MAF Enhancer? - If your vehicle has a MAP / MAF sensor,
you need an Enhancer. Vehicles newer than 1995 have this sensor. However,
diesel engines do not have one.
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HOW DOES THE MAP SENSOR
WORK?
The
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor signal is electrically used in a similar
way to the use of Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor signal (although internally it is
built differently). It takes a 5 volt signal from the ECM or ECU (Environmental
Control Unit or Module) computer, and returns a lower direct current signal in
accordance with the vacuum in the engine. A higher output voltage means lower
engine vacuum, which is then calculated as “more fuel is needed”. Lower output
signal indicates higher engine vacuum, which requires less fuel.
It's not just fuel control. The MAP sensor signal gives the computer a dynamic
indication of engine load. The computer then uses this data to control not only
fuel injection, but also gear shift and cylinder ignition timing.
As acceleration increases,
the voltage
output for the MAP Sensor increases and then decreases when decelerating.
The Enhancer is connected between the MAP
Sensor output signal and the ECM.
The Enhancer reduces the output voltage and therefore reduces the amount of fuel
sent to the engine.
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Checking The Manifold Absolute Pressure
(MAP) Sensor
Purpose:
The
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor is
used to monitor intake manifold pressure
(engine load). It sends voltage
signals to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
that represent the engines varying load
conditions.
Theory/Operation:
ECM (Electornic Control Module) supplies 5
volt sensor reference voltage. The sensor,
connected to manifold vacuum at throttle
body, converts intake manifold pressure into
voltage.
A silicon crystal in the MAP sensor senses
changes in manifold absolute pressure. This
crystal changes the resistance of the sensor
depending upon the manifold absolute
pressure acting upon it, and the change in
resistance affects the amount of voltage
that the sensor allows to flow back to the
ECM.
Manifold absolute pressure and voltage to
ECM are directly proportional (manifold
absolute pressure increases, low vacuum,
voltage to ECM increases and vice versa).
Sensor resistance and manifold absolute
pressure are inversely proportional (as
manifold absolute pressure increases, (low
vacuum), sensor resistance decreases and
vice versa).
Typical Readings:
Sensor output voltage range is 0.5 to 4.5
volts.
Output voltages between 0.5 and 1.5 volts
indicate a high vacuum (low pressure)
situation, such as idle or deceleration.
Output voltages between 1.5 and 3.0 volts
indicate a medium level of vacuum (pressure)
such as a cruise or slight acceleration
condition.
Output voltages between 3.0 and 4.5 volts
indicate a low vacuum (high pressure)
situation such as hard acceleration or a
mechanical failure.
Any reading of 0 volts or over 4.5 volts
indicates a problem.
NOTE: The following
procedure tests the MAP sensor only.
- Inspect the rubber nipple (fitting)
from the MAP sensor to the throttle
body. Repair as necessary. CAUTION:
When testing the MAP sensor, be sure
that the harness wires are not damaged
by the test meter probes.
- Test the MAP sensor output voltage
at the MAP sensor connector terminal B.
With the ignition switch ON, and the
engine OFF. Output voltage should be 4
to 5 volts.
- Test the MAP sensor output voltage
at the MAP sensor connector terminal B
at a hot, neutral idle speed condition.
The voltage should drop to 1.5 to 2.1
volts.
- Test MAP sensor supply voltage at
sensor connector terminal C with the
ignition ON. The voltage should be
approximately 5 volts (±O.5 V).
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THE ENHANCER
The invention we're talking about here is a
simple play with resistors. A resistor is a little piece of carbon that reduces
current. Higher value means it resists more. The potentiometer (“pot” for
short) is a variable resistor, which varies its value by turning the knob.
There is another resistor, a fixed value resistor, in series to the pot to
increase the dial range.
The MAP or Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor is a little though expensive device
installed in your intake manifold, or installed on the firewall and connected to
the manifold with a thin hose. It has 5 Volts or 12 Volts coming in, and it
simply senses the vacuum in the manifold and attenuates (reduces, weakens) this
incoming voltage by a certain factor. In other words it reduces the supply
voltage to a direct-current voltage in the range of 15% to 60% of the supply
voltage (depending on the car's design these numbers will vary), and this
varying (but non-pulsing) signal is then sent back to the computer.
On carbureted cars, we recommend re-jetting the
main jets ½ size smaller to get a leaner mixture, simply running hydrogen down
the carburetor throat will not cause the carburetor to put less gas in.
Carburetors are simple, and leaning it slightly isn’t that hard.
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Oxygen Sensor
Extender -
This is the O2 sensor Extender. It backs
the O2 sensor back out of the exhaust pipe 3/4" so that the MAP Sensor Enhancer
will produce the max MPG gains on your vehicle. This should also turn OUT
the check engine light. You will need 2 of these if you have DUAL exhaust
system. It is very simple to install - just unscrew your O2 sensor.
Thread the extender into the exhaust pipe then thread the O2 sensor back into
this unit. It also will lean your fuel ratios down so you could see gains
in MPG as much as 10% then add the MAP Enhancer and Electrolyzer and see 30 % or
more MPG gains. These Will NOT fit Some TOYOTA or SATURN vehicles.
Also, if your O2 sensor is held on by two bolts, this will NOT fit!
When an internal combustion engine is under
high load (such as when using wide-open throttle), the output of
the oxygen sensor is ignored, and the engine automatically
enriches the mixture to protect the engine. Any changes in
the sensor output will be ignored in this state, as are changes
from the airflow meter, which might otherwise lower engine
performance due to the mixture being too rich or too lean, and
increase the risk of engine damage due to detonation if the
mixture is too lean.
An Oxygen sensor is a chemical generator. It is constantly
making a comparison between the Oxygen inside the exhaust
manifold and air outside the engine. If this comparison
shows little or no Oxygen in the exhaust manifold, a voltage is
generated. The output of the sensor is usually between 0
and 1.1 volts. All spark combustion engines need the
proper air fuel ratio to operate correctly. For gasoline
this is 14.7 parts of air to one part of fuel. When the
engine has more fuel than needed, all available Oxygen is
consumed in the cylinder and gasses leaving through the exhaust
contain almost no Oxygen. This sends out a voltage greater
than 0.45 volts. If the engine is running lean, all fuel
is burned, and the extra Oxygen leaves the cylinder and flows
into the exhaust. In this case, the sensor voltage goes
lower than 0.45 volts. Usually the output range seen seen
is 0.2 to 0.7 volts. The sensor does not begin to generate
it's full output until it reaches about 600 degrees F.
Prior to this time the sensor is not conductive. It is as
if the circuit between the sensor and computer is not complete.
The mid point is about 0.45 volts. This is neither rich nor
lean. A fully warm O2 sensor *will not spend any time at
0.45 volts*. In many cars, the computer sends out a bias
voltage of 0.45 through the O2 sensor wire. If the sensor
is not warm, or if the circuit is not complete, the computer
picks up a steady 0.45 volts. Since the computer knows
this is an "illegal" value, it judges the sensor to not be
ready. It remains in open loop operation, and uses all
sensors except the O2 to determine fuel delivery. Any time
an engine is operated in open loop, it runs somewhat rich and
makes more exhaust emissions. This translates into lost
power, poor fuel economy and air pollution. The O2 sensor
is constantly in a state of transition between high and low
voltage. Manufacturers call this crossing of the 0.45 volt
mark O2 cross counts. The higher the number of O2 cross
counts, the better the sensor and other parts of the computer
control system are working. It is important to remember
that the O2 sensor is comparing the amount of Oxygen inside and
outside the engine. If the outside of the sensor should
become blocked, or coated with oil, sound insulation,
undercoating or antifreeze, (among other things), this
comparison is not possible.
When adjusting the O2 sensors, you only need
modify the signal to the sensors before the catalytic converter. Many
newer cars have O2 sensors on the manifold and O2 sensors after the catalytic
converter. If you have an older car with only one O2 sensor then obviously
that is the one that we adjust.
This is the O2 Sensor output voltage chart. The output voltage tells the ECM weather the fuel mixture is "Rich" or "Lean". The extender decreased
the oxygen reading and thereby "tricks" the ECM into thinking the mixture is
14.7 to 1 when it really is higher.
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How many HHO Generators do I need? -
Generally speaking, you need one HHO Generator for every 2 liters of engine
size. For example, if you have a 5 liter SUV, you need at least a Dual
Cell HHO Generator.
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Void my Warranty? - According to section
2302(c) of the "Magnuson Moss Warranty Act" reproduced here in full, auto
makers/dealers cannot legally void the warranty on your vehicle due to
installation or addition of any aftermarket component or system - unless they
can prove to the FEDERAL Trade Commission that the aftermarket part has caused
or contributed to the failure in the vehicle!
Magnuson Moss Warranty Act
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Freezing Weather - What about freezing
cold weather?Your options for freezing weather are:
In the Electrolyzer (hydrogen generator) instead of distilled water use WASHER
FLUID (not radiator anti-freeze; not gasoline anti-freeze either). I think it's
enough to use a mixture of half WASHER FLUID (-20 degrees grade) and half
distilled water. In this case the Electrolyze should be operated in "/divO mode"
which means you pull out the fuse and you use it as a Vaporizer (water vapor
injector). Otherwise the electrolysis process will change the washer fluid
back to plain water.
If you want to still be producing Hydrogen, leave the fuse on. In this
case you will need to ADD A BIT OF washer fluid before you park the vehicle for
the night. Just remove the little black cap and squirt some washer fluid
into the Electrolyzer. Idea: a small pump connected to the washer fluid
reservoir can do this for you with a push of a button.
I personally think this one is the best solution: Battery Warmers are being sold
online for as little as $19.20. Battery Warmers from InfinitiPartsPeople.com or
www.JCwhitney.com work on 110 volts, while Warming Pads from www.PadHeaters.com
are good for 12 volts.
Both types above take little energy (about 60 Watts) so you can keep it on all
night. You may also wrap the device and the warmer with Mylar® or aluminum foil
to minimize heat loss. Disconnect the warmer before driving, because the
electrolyzer will keep itself warm when active.
Another option, starting as low as $0.99 on eBay, is to place a Coffee Mug
Warmer under the electrolyzer. Optionally wrap it with Mylar®, aluminum foil or
some other type of insulating blanket. Search eBay for "coffee mug warmer", it
will bring up many offers. Choose one, cut off the USB plug and connect it to a
cigarette lighter plug (your best choice of connection so you don't have to open
the hood in order to switch it on and off). I've found such a plug with an
inline fuse and a long cord for $1.29 on eBay, and you can also find it at your
auto parts shop for about $2.
One solution that you may like is to put quick-connect plugs on both the
electrical connection and the hose connections. Before you leave the
vehicle for any extended period of time (more than 30 minutes), pop up the hood
and the the device indoors. By the way, only with technology you can do this
safely, since we do not use any strong acids or any other hazardous chemicals.
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Dangerous? - Is this
technology dangerous? Very dangerous - if you do stupid things! Hydrogen, any
system using hydrogen as fuel, is not a toy! I've had people trying to ignite
the hydrogen for fun...oh boy!!! They just wanted to see if it would
ignite... Of course it will! Hydrogen ignites if you put a match to it,
and then its flame runs at 3.5 Mach!
Throughout the books I have placed more than enough precaution notes, for every
area that may harm you or damage the vehicle. Even when it came to toxic
glues, I placed prominent warnings that you just cannot miss.
That said, Hydrogen-On-Demand technology is NOT more dangerous than the usual
automotive technologies involving fuel, cooling, etc. For instance we all
know that the radiator is essential to cool down the engine, and without it the
car will go up in smoke. However, if you open the radiator cap when hot,
you're going to get hurt, is that right? The danger is not in the
radiator; the danger is in ignorance and carelessness. There are safety rules
and they are quite simple, but you have to know them and apply them.
Let me give you a real example: in the installation chapter you will see that
you MUST keep the output hose at least 4 feet long, to prevent fire hazard.
Don't cut it short even if the device is closer than 4 ft. Maybe this
"wastes" a dollar or two, but saves a lot of trouble! Every such
precaution is highlighted in the book so you cannot miss them.
In general: Hydrogen-On-Demand means that we are not storing Hydrogen! In normal
operation we're using all the Hydrogen that we're producing, immediately.
There is no Hydrogen storage tank to explode in case of an accident. MUCH
SAFER THAN HYDROGEN CARS OR PROPANE/NATURAL GAS VEHICLES.
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Dual Cell Efficiency - Generally speaking, you need
one HHO Cell Generator for every two liters of engine size. Of course,
this depends on the liters per hour the HHO generator produces, but this rule
applies to the normal Water4gas HHO generator design.
The description below is
borrowed from Patrick Kelly's document “D9.PDF”
The current flowing through the cell determines its HHO production. This
is an absolutely key factor in gas production, and one of the most difficult to
control accurately and economically. The greater the current, the greater
the rate of gas production. The current is controlled by the concentration
of Baking Soda in the water and the voltage across the cell. The voltage
across the cell has limited effect as it reaches a maximum at 1.24 volts.
Up to that point, an increase in voltage causes an increase in gas production
rate. Once the voltage gets over this limit, increasing it further
produces no further increase in the rate of gas production.
If the voltage is increased above 1.24 volts, the extra voltage goes to heat
the water. This can be a slight advantage, but not much. (The
advantage is that heat creates more water vapor which is good for cooling down
the engine.)
Let's look at the math. We'll simplify it here for the sake of
understanding. Assume that the current through the cell is 2 amps.
In that case, the power used to produce gas is 2 amps x 1.24 volts = 2.48
watts. When the engine is running, the voltage at the car's battery
terminals will be about 13.8 volts as the alternator provides the extra voltage
to drive current into the battery. The excess voltage applied to the cell
is about 1.24 less than that, or 12.56 volts.
The power which heats the electrolyte is now 12.56 volts x 2 amps = 25.12 watts.
That is more than ten times the power being used to produce gas!
This is very inefficient. The following diagram will help you understand
the situation.
In short: The more cells, the less heat and more HHO.
Or, more correctly, higher energy efficiency for HHO production. This is
true up to 6 or 7 cells max.
So the best way to reduce heat
and increase HHO production is to reduce the voltage applied to the cell by
using more than one cell, or in other words several cells connected in a
daisy-chain across the battery.
Conclusion: With two cells, each will get about
7
volts across it and the gas production will be doubled. In this case, the
power used to produce gas is still 2 amps x 1.24 volts = 2.48
watts for each cell. But now, only 13.8 volts / 2 cells in series
= 6.9 volts. Subtract 1.24 volts to create HHO which leaves only 5.66
volts or 11.32 watts to heat each cell instead of 25.12 watts with a single
cell. This represents a 55% reduction in heat producing voltage and
100% increase in HHO production.
If space in the
engine compartment allows, a chain of six cells can be used which means each
receives about two volts and the waste power is reduced to an absolute minimum -
while the gas production is six times higher.
With the higher rate of gas
production, it would probably be possible to reduce the chosen current flowing
through the cell (good for smaller batteries and alternators such as in gas
scooters and go carts). Also, with six cells, the amount of water is six
times greater and so there will be less concentrating of the electrolyte due to
the water being used up.
Let's summarize the benefits of
the multi-cell setup:
1. Multiply HHO production,
2. Reduce heat,
3. More water stored in the system.
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