Hydrogen HHO Generator Installation Instructions

1. Position the HYDROGEN GENERATOR CELL in a place under the hood of the vehicle where it will set vertical. Use some bungee cords (not supplied) to keep it in place and easily serviced.

2. Position the RELAY WITH WIRE HARNESS in a place under the hood of the vehicle where it can be secured (with a tie-wrap) and easily serviced.

1. Secure the short 12” long (12 gauge black) wire from the relay connector to the (-) NEGATIVE side of the battery.

2. Secure the (42.0” long) 12 gauge black wire to the HYDROGEN GENERATOR CELL (Black) wing nut.

3. Secure the (short) 12 gauge red wire (with the 30 amp ATC fuse) to the positive or (+12 V) of the battery.

5. Secure the small YELLOW wire (from the relay harness) to an existing wire in the vehicle wiring harness that is HOT (has 12 V.) when the vehicle engine is running. Secure with BLUE wire connector provided.

1. There are (2) vacuum lines provided for getting the best performance from your HYDROGEN GENERATOR SYSTEM. Use the “T” connector (provided) to get vacuum from the intake manifold and the brass fitting for tapping into the air intake. Use a 7/16” drill bit if drilling into hard plastic air filter housing and screw the fitting in. Cut 0.4'' off each of the three ends of the "T" connecter and drill the holes with 1/8'' bit. The remaining "T" connection should fit firmly on the "1/4" vacuum hose.

2. The reason for the Dual supply is that when the engine is idling, there is a high vacuum pressure in the intake manifold. This pressure drops when you accelerate or rev up the engine to a high RPM. At that moment more vacuum is available in the air intake for sucking up HYDROGEN gas into the engine.

3. If you have a regular diesel truck, join the two hoses exiting from the generator together using the "T" connecter. Connect the remaining hose to the air intake before the Turbo Charger, if you have one. Configure the length of the hoses appropriately.

1. Fill the jar with DISTILLED WATER, leaving 1” of free space at the top. Add ¼ - 1/2 teaspoon of Electrolyte (pure baking soda). Close the jar. The more electrolyte you add, the more amps your generator will pull from the battery.

2. NOTE Adding 1 teaspoon of Electrolyte will generate much more HHO (Hydrogen-oxygen mixture). This kit is supplied with a 30 amp ATC fuse. THE JAR MAY GET HOT BUT WON’T CRACK. HOWEVER LET IT COOL OFF BEFORE ADDING COOL WATER OR ATTEMPTING ANY MAINTENANCE ACTION.

Inspect the installation visually. Make sure all the electrical connections are tight and the lid is screwed tight on the jar.

1. Turn the vacuum adjustment valve (bubbler cap) fully CLOCKWISE. Then turn it half turn COUNTER-CLOCKWISE.

2. Start the engine and watch the bubbling action coming out of the lower end of the clear tubing at the bottom of the jar. Gradually turn the Vacuum Adjustment Valve and watch the bubbling action in the jar. Adjust the valve until there is a small amount of bubbling action. A yellowish gas (HHO) will start forming and flow to the top of the jar.

3. Within a short time (roughly 30 seconds), you will notice that the engine starts to sound quite differently. It will sound smoother and quieter. Its RPM may be unstable for a couple minutes. This is normal – the HHO is starting to change the combustion cycle and cancels the pinging – and the engine is now adjusting to the changes.

In some cases you may notice that ZERO BUBBLING may increase your performance and increase your gas mileage, however it is safer to leave some bubbling even if very low because it keeps the HHO moist at all times.

2. Refill cell with fresh distilled water every 2 – 3 weeks or about every 1000 miles.

Note: The information contained in these instructions is for educational purposes only and cannot substitute for the advice of professional mechanic or authorized dealer. Don't attempt to repair your car if you don't have proper knowledge and tools, you can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged. Take your car to a dealer or a repair shop for proper installation.

Test vehicle 1: 2003 Saturn Vue 4 cyl.
Test vehicle 2: 2003 Saturn Vue 6 cyl.
Test vehicle 3: 2004 Chevrolet Venture Van 6 cyl.

THE GRAPH IS NOT UNIVERSAL, meaning it does not cover all the engines and gasoline qualities in the world, and is brought here to give you an idea but not exact numbers. It is a known fact to experimenters, for instance, that the various fuel grades available on the market will each react differently to acetone. This is true more so with gasoline engines than diesel engines. In addition, adding Xylene and other additives will change the graph as well.

SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING

WATER LEVEL TOO LOW

Add water… If you’re saying “Of course!” or “Duh!” then listen up – there are things you should know here that are not obvious to everybody. First of all for safety’s sake, never do it with the electricity on. Turn the ignition switch fully off AND pull the fuse out. Second, never fill out new water into an empty HOT JAR. Let it cool first. Third, for convenience of weekly or bi-weekly refilling, prepare a gallon of distilled water with the proper amount of Electrolyte, so you can pour just the necessary amount every time without worrying about Electrolyte ratios (for 1 Gallon, 1 teaspoon of Electrolyte is good for moderate production of HHO, and 4 teaspoons per Gallon are good for high HHO production; read the sections regarding fuse selection).

JAR OVERHEATS

Lower the ratio of Electrolyte. At ¼ teaspoon, the unit will normally stay cold or lukewarm, and moderate amount of HHO will be produced. Full teaspoon may heat up the jar (while producing maximal HHO). Don't worry about the jar, we haven’t seen any jar cracking due to heat. But the plastics and glue may be damaged, so you don't want overheating for long periods of time.

In H2O mode (no 12 Volts) the unit doe not heat up unless it is mounted next to a hot part of the engine. Which brings us to HHO units overheating with moderate levels of Baking Soda – find a cooler place in the engine compartment. If you have the choice, select a position in front of the engine rather than behind it, because that's where much cooler air flows in.

NO HHO PRODUCTION

Check for a blown fuse. We have found the 5 Amps useful with ¼ teaspoon of Electrolyte for 1 quart of water. For high HHO production we use 1 teaspoon of Electrolyte to 1 quart of water, and replace the fuse to 8-10 Amps (although idling current measurement reads only 3 Amps).

If the fuse is OK, check the wiring. Measure the voltage between the terminals – it should read around 12 Volts. I f you don’t have a voltmeter, check with any 12-volt bulb.

Fuse keeps blowing? First check the wiring outside the device. Verify that nothing touches the body of the car or some other metallic or conductive element. Inspect the electrodes inside the device.

Sometimes there are two wires in each electrode, sometimes only one. Each electrode, which is the wire, or pair of wires, coming out of negative or positive terminal (the bolt with the wingnut) and spiraling down, should be in one piece (i.e., not broken or visibly damaged) and spiraling at intervals of about 3/8” from the other electrode. The photograph below demonstrates what needs to touch or go very close together, and what not. If the electrodes are too close, separate them as shown and glue in place with Plumbers Goop.

As shown, touching wires or not in each pair is ok,
as long as the gaps are kept between the electrodes.
IF YOU HAVE ONLY ONE WIRE (INSTEAD OF A PAIR)
IN EACH ELECTRODE, THAT'S OK TOO.

BUBBLING TOO HIGH OR TOO LOW

Adjust the bubbler cap. A LOW BUBBLING is the ideal level. If it won’t adjust, replace the malfunctioning component (adjuster, tubing or tip). Try to clean it first; it may be clogged with dust or mud.

HHO PRODUCTION TOO LOW

Try to replace the water. Maybe you or somebody else put distilled water and forgot the Electrolyte. For convenience of weekly or bi-weekly refilling, prepare a gallon of distilled water with the proper amount of Electrolyte so you can pour just the necessary amount every time without worrying about Electrolyte ratios (for 1 Gallon, 1 teaspoon of Electrolyte is good for moderate production of HHO, and 4 teaspoons are good for high HHO production).

WATER LOOKS MUDDY IN HHO DEVICE

Don’t worry too much about water clarity - it will never be perfect. If the water becomes very dirty in a few days, it may be due to tap water used in HHO unit rather than distilled water! Otherwise replace the water once every 2-4 weeks. You may wash the entire unit, including the jar and electrodes, with tap water. No need to use soap or chemicals for perfect cleanliness.

MPG NOT AS EXPECTED

First check visually that the system functions mechanically without obstructions: bubbling level, loose connections, possible leaks or breaks, blocked or dented vacuum hose.

UPDATE July 2007: One major problem is that of clogged hoses and passages. Sometimes baking soda builds up in narrow passages such as the universal vacuum-T, the output check valve (mainly the one going to the intake manifold), and in some cases even the vacuum port going to the intake manifold (especially if it's inner diameter is very small). These clogs reduce mileage considerably since they impede the flow of HHO to the engine.

Blockage looks like a white stone. Yet it is VERY EASY to remove. Flush the clogged passage, valve or hose with tap water. No detergent necessary. DO NOT PUSH HIGH PRESSURE AIR through the check valve since this may bust the delicate membrane. Some water and a gentle mouth air blow will clean it in no time.

The secondary source of problem may be the computer, especially if it’s a fuel-injected engine. With any H2O or HHO unit installed, the car’s computer may sense more oxygen in the exhaust pipe. It then considers the fuel mixture to be too lean – and adds more gasoline - unnecessarily.

Having HHO added to gasoline and saving at the pump is not the same thing. I mean it doesn't automatically follow. There's a whole science in between, and I call this science GST or Gas Saving Technique(s) – a group of devices, techniques and methods which I find valid and seriously workable to save gasoline and reduce emissions.

So we will use the plural and singular versions of this new word. Each GST will work for you separately – but together all “GST's” will add up to a whole lot.

So lets re-define this technology: GST is a series of techniques you should use if you're seriously interested in saving gasoline by mainly - but not only - using water as a gasoline supplement.

WATER FREEZES IN EXTREME COLD WEATHER

First of all, the glass jar will not break when it freezes, because the water has space to expand UPWARDS, with the air having 4 routes to escape (HHO outputs, pressure release check valve and the bubbler valve) to make more room for the expanding water. So just in case it does freeze, it will not break.

The electrolyzer is capable of thawing itself in a few minutes. Start the engine and let it run for a few minutes. The electricity running through the spiraled electrodes acts like a heater and will melt the frozen water. This is safe to do because this heating process happens all the time anyway.

New solutions of 2008:

Both types above take little energy (about 60 Watts) so you can keep it on all night. You may also wrap the device and the warmer with Mylar® or aluminum foil to minimize heat loss. Disconnect the warmer before driving, because the electrolyzer will keep itself warm when active.

<<<<<< Another option, starting as low as $0.99 on eBay, is to place a Coffee Mug Warmer under the electrolyzer. Optionally wrap it with Mylar®, aluminum foil or some other type of insulating blanket. Search eBay for "coffee mug warmer", it will bring up many offers. Choose one, cut off the USB plug and connect it to a cigarette lighter plug (your best choice of connection so you don't have to open the hood in order to switch it on and off). A cigarette lighter plug - with an inline fuse and a long cord - for only $1.29 on eBay, and you can also find it at your autoparts shop for about $2.

Since these warmers are calculated to work on 5 volts out of the computer's USB plug, operating on 12 volts may cause them to overheat. I recommend that you use them in pairs. Connect each pair in series, so each cup warmer gets only 6 volts. Perfect for a multi-cell.

Watts Quick-Connect Plumbing Solutions
Attn: Literature Department
815 Chestnut Street
North Andover, MA 01845, USA

1. Insert the wire that you are adding, the new wire (red shown but it could be either the red or black) into the rear slot of the splice connector. Note that it will only fit from the right hand side when the connector is positioned as shown:
2. Insert the wire you wish to splice to (brown wire shown for example) into the front slot of the connector as shown:
3. Using pliers press the metal connector onto the wires. This will cut through the insulation of both wires and make a firm electrical connection between them, all in one action:
4. Close the folding cover of the connector by hand as shown:
5. The final connection will look like this:
The installation will now look something like this. Note the absence of bottom support – the jar is hanging on the edge of the washer fluid reservoir. Never fell down no matter the road/speed. The bungees are pretty tight but still allow for easy removal of the device without removing any of the bungees.