HHO Development Support

Dual Mode MAP / MAF Sensor Enhancer Ready to Install
August 17, 2008

  This Map Sensor Enhancer was built directly from the Water4-Gas specifications manual.  It has separate “Hwy” & “City” adjustments along with an “On” & “Off” (Original Factory Setting) switch.  This device was designed in accordance with Water4-Gas to work with an HHO generator (Hydrogen Fuel Cell).

Also included is a detailed installation, usage, tuning & maintenance guide based on information provided from Water4Gas manuals.  Even if you have good mechanical skills, you should have the repair manual for your vehicle to help find the Map sensor and locate the wire that goes from the Map sensor to the computer.  Improper installation of this Map Sensor Enhancer may cause problems with your vehicle’s electrical system. 
                            Consult with a qualified mechanic before installing this device.

HOW DOES THE MAP SENSOR WORK?

The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor signal is electrically used in a similar way to the use of Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor signal (although internally it is built differently). It takes a 5 volt signal from the ECM or ECU (Environmental Control Unit or Module) computer, and returns a lower direct current signal in accordance with the vacuum in the engine.  A higher output voltage means lower engine vacuum, which is then calculated as “more fuel is needed”.  Lower output signal indicates higher engine vacuum, which requires less fuel.

It's not just fuel control.  The MAP sensor signal gives the computer a dynamic indication of engine load. The computer then uses this data to control not only fuel injection, but also gear shift and cylinder ignition timing.

As acceleration increases, the voltage
output for the MAP Sensor increases and then decreases when decelerating.

The Enhancer is connected between the MAP Sensor output signal and the ECM.

The Enhancer reduces the output voltage and therefore reduces the amount of fuel sent to the engine.

YouTube - MAP sensor Explanation of MAP sensor. ... http://www.rightautos.com ... 1 min 55 sec -

Checking The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Purpose: The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor is used to monitor intake manifold pressure (engine load).  It sends voltage signals to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) that represent the engines varying load conditions. Theory/Operation: ECM (Electornic Control Module) supplies 5 volt sensor reference voltage. The sensor, connected to manifold vacuum at throttle body, converts intake manifold pressure into voltage. A silicon crystal in the MAP sensor senses changes in manifold absolute pressure. This crystal changes the resistance of the sensor depending upon the manifold absolute pressure acting upon it, and the change in resistance affects the amount of voltage that the sensor allows to flow back to the ECM. Manifold absolute pressure and voltage to ECM are directly proportional (manifold absolute pressure increases, low vacuum, voltage to ECM increases and vice versa). Sensor resistance and manifold absolute pressure are inversely proportional (as manifold absolute pressure increases, (low vacuum), sensor resistance decreases and vice versa). Typical Readings: Sensor output voltage range is 0.5 to 4.5 volts. Output voltages between 0.5 and 1.5 volts indicate a high vacuum (low pressure) situation, such as idle or deceleration. Output voltages between 1.5 and 3.0 volts indicate a medium level of vacuum (pressure) such as a cruise or slight acceleration condition. Output voltages between 3.0 and 4.5 volts indicate a low vacuum (high pressure) situation such as hard acceleration or a mechanical failure. Any reading of 0 volts or over 4.5 volts indicates a problem. NOTE: The following procedure tests the MAP sensor only. Inspect the rubber nipple (fitting) from the MAP sensor to the throttle body. Repair as necessary. CAUTION: When testing the MAP sensor, be sure that the harness wires are not damaged by the test meter probes. Test the MAP sensor output voltage at the MAP sensor connector terminal B. With the ignition switch ON, and the engine OFF. Output voltage should be 4 to 5 volts. Test the MAP sensor output voltage at the MAP sensor connector terminal B at a hot, neutral idle speed condition. The voltage should drop to 1.5 to 2.1 volts. Test MAP sensor supply voltage at sensor connector terminal C with the ignition ON. The voltage should be approximately 5 volts (±O.5 V).

THE ENHANCER

The invention we're talking about here is a simple play with resistors. A resistor is a little piece of carbon that reduces current. Higher value means it resists more.  The potentiometer (“pot” for short) is a variable resistor, which varies its value by turning the knob.  There is another resistor, a fixed value resistor, in series to the pot to increase the dial range.

The MAP or Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor is a little though expensive device installed in your intake manifold, or installed on the firewall and connected to the manifold with a thin hose.  It has 5 Volts or 12 Volts coming in, and it simply senses the vacuum in the manifold and attenuates (reduces, weakens) this incoming voltage by a certain factor. In other words it reduces the supply voltage to a direct-current voltage in the range of 15% to 60% of the supply voltage (depending on the car's design these numbers will vary), and this varying (but non-pulsing) signal is then sent back to the computer.

The arrangement of resistors simply takes this already attenuated (reduced, weakened) signal – and attenuates it further.  Too much attenuation kills the engine; it will simply shut off.  Yet if you control it correctly, you can lean down the mixture from the balance of ingredients which is factory set at 14.7:1 (14.7 parts of air to 1 part gasoline) – down to 20:1, maybe even 50:1.

Find the Signal Wire

To find the MAP Sensor Signal Wire, use a Circuit Tester like the one above to find the correct wire.  You can hook this tester in series with your multi-meter to find the actual voltage of the wires coming out of the MAP Sensor.  The correct wire is the one with the lowest voltage or the one with a voltage that varies when the engine RPM is increased. 

On carbureted cars, we recommend re-jetting the main jets ½ size smaller to get a leaner mixture, simply running hydrogen down the carburetor throat will not cause the carburetor to put less gas in.  Carburetors are simple, and leaning it slightly isn’t that hard.

OTHER FEATURES – This Enhancer is built for functionality and is a must have for anyone installing a Hydrogen Fuel Cell in vehicles 1996 and newer or any vehicle with a MAP / MAF (Manifold Absolute Pressure / Mass Air Flow) sensor including diesels. 

This graph demonstrates the linear properties of the HHO Development MAP / MAF Sensor Enhancer.  By turning the Enhancer dials, you can reduce or attenuate the signal voltage to the ECM.  Please note that the higher the dial setting the greater the increase in the air to fuel ratio.  Without attenuation, that is when the dial is set to 0 or the lower switch is set to "Factory", the air to fuel ratio will be maintained at 14.7 parts air to 1 part fuel.   When you begin to turn the dial, this ratio increases according to this graph.  If you turn the dial too far, the engine will shut down due to lack of fuel.

ACTUAL TUNING ON THE ROAD

Turn the "City" dial all the way to “rich” (The Dial should point to “0”).  Make sure your HHO Generator is operational. Warm up the engine and drive a while before experimenting with the knob.  For speeds above 40 mph, switch to "HWY" and adjust the "Highway" Dial.

1. DO THE NEXT STEP WITH CARE – ON A SIDE ROAD - JUST IN CASE YOUR ENGINE STOPS UNEXPECTEDLY.

2. Now, start turning the knob; the mixture will turn leaner and leaner until the car stalls or bucks as you drive.
 
3. Back the knob off slightly after the bucking and chugging. Keep the danger of overheating in mind.  If your device is non-operational, temporarily set the enhancer at or near original factory setting (rich).

4. Set points can change from one gas station fuel to another, weather conditions, cold engine, etc. The differences are not large, but if you're on the edge, then the car will buck or vibrate, and you'll need to change the set point a bit.  Remember that this is a simple device.

NOTE: When this device turns on, the "check engine light", and it WILL do that, you can turn off the light using a ScanGauge-II or an OBD-2 Connector (1996 cars or newer).

Email me with any questions at: gdaddy8801@yahoo.com

Sensor to Enhancer Installation

Oxygen (O₂)  Sensor Extender

Background - In the past, fuel savers would not work when applied to fuel injection because fuel injection systems are actually designed to prevent efficient combustion!   Increasing the combustion efficiency of an engine increases the exhaust oxygen percentage.  Fuel injection engines use an oxygen sensor to infer the air/fuel ratio of the engine, the increased oxygen content in the exhaust is 'read' by the computer to be a lean mixture in the engine.  The computer then adds extra fuel to bring the pollution back to 'normal'.   This problem led to the development of  electronic solutions such as the Electronic Fuel Injection Enhancer (EFIE, pronounced Ee-Fy).  The EFIE allows you to apply an offset to the voltage coming from the oxygen sensor, so your vehicle's computer is completely un-aware that the oxygen content of the exhaust has increased.  The alternative solution is mechanical in nature - The Oxygen sensor Extender...

Below is the O2 sensor Extender.  It displaces the O2 sensor out of the exhaust pipe approximately 3/4" so that senses less oxygen in your exhaust.  This procedure should also turn OUT the check engine light.  You will need 2 of these Extenders if you have a DUAL exhaust system.  It is very simple to install - just unscrew your O2 sensor.  Thread the extender into the exhaust pipe, and then thread the O2 sensor back into the Extender.  This will lean your fuel ratio down so you could see gains in MPG as much as 10%.  When you then add the MAP Enhancer and Electrolyzer, you should see 20 % or more MPG gains.  These Will NOT fit Some TOYOTA or SATURN vehicles.  Also,  if your O2 sensor is held on by two bolts, this will NOT fit!

How does an O2 sensor work?

This is the O2 Sensor output voltage chart.  The output voltage tells the ECM weather the fuel mixture is "Rich" or "Lean".  The extender decreases the oxygen reading and thereby "tricks" the ECM into thinking the mixture is more rich than it really is.

Frequently Asked Questions

1. When should I use the “Highway” and “Enhanced” setting?
Answer: This unit can be switched to the original factory settings by putting the switch in the Original position and is used in this position for cold starts and where conditions such as passing, steep grades or any situation that requires performance is needed. The Enhanced Switch position is used in conjunction with the Highway - City Switch, and the Highway - City Potentiometers which are leaned in to achieve the best mileage in respect to city or highway speeds.  Use the “Highway” setting for speeds above 40 mph.

2. Do the Oxygen Sensors need to be disabled if I use an Enhancer?
Answer: I recommend using O2 extenders shown above.
 
3. Will the Enhancer work on any make and model vehicle with a MAP Sensor?
Answer: It will work on MAP Sensors that operate by varying a voltage to the ECU.

4. Will the Enhancer work with a MAF – Mass Air Flow Sensor?
Answer: If the sensor operates by varying a voltage to the ECM, it should work unless the MAF Sensor is frequency varied.  See Next Page…

Mass Air Flow Sensor Detail 

The Air Flow Sensor or Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) is one of the components of an electronic fuel injection system and is found in many of modern vehicles. The Mass Air Flow sensor is usually installed inside the intake air duct between the air filter and the engine. The Mass Air Flow sensor is used to measure the amount of air entering the engine. This measurement is used by the engine computer or ECM to calculate proper amount of fuel injected into the cylinders in order to provide optimum combustion and low emissions.  If your MAF Sensor is voltage varied, incorporate the MAF Enhancer to reduce voltage to the ECM.  (See Below.) 

HHO (Hydrogen) Fuel Cell Generator

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

• Incorrectly installing or incorrectly using Water4Gas technology may result in serious damage or body injury.  Read and follow the instructions and safety precautions given here and in relevant places throughout this book to avoid these hazards.
• If you do not understand these instructions or do not like working on vehicles, have your mechanic do the installation. It should take around 15 minutes to install.
• Work outside, no smoking; make sure the engine is not hot.
• Wear goggles and gloves and only use professional tools; use common sense and general safety procedures used for automotive installations and maintenance. If you're not sure, ASK!
• Study this chapter well before installation. In case of trouble, refer to the chapter on troubleshooting.
• The article “Shade Tree Safety” By Mike Bumbeck of autoMedia.com is a recommended reading that will give you more education on the subject:

http://www.valvoline.com/carcare/articleviewer.asp?pg=ccr20070501st&cccid=2&scccid=5

The list below describes the TYPICAL materials which can improve gas mileage.  The typical kit can include:

1.   One quart-size highly durable glass jar (durable plastic option will be given later).  We’ve never seen any of these jars break or crack, in thousands of miles of day-to-day road tests. 

2.   Converted jar lid (made of durable white plastic) with electrodes, valves, wiring terminals, etc.  This is a very unique design, with SPIRALED electrodes rather than flat ones.  Due to the magnetic forces created by the spirals, this design produces MORE HHO - for LESS current drawn out of the car's battery. This is your Electrolyzer.

3.   Optional: Another converted jar lid (metallic or plastic) that makes your Vaporizer.

4.   Optional: MAP Sensor Enhancer – a must have for great fuel economy.

5.   Optional: Fuel Heater: pre-heats your gasoline for better gas economy, a great companion to your Hydrogen-On-Demand system.

6.   Optional: PCV Enhancer: another companion to your Hydrogen-On-Demand system that improves the PCV function, protects your engine and saves gas.

7.   Fuse holder + installation wiring with ready-to-hook-terminals. Plus quick splice connectors for easy electrical installation. Plus flex protective tubing.

8.   Vacuum line T-connector. Helps you hook up the Electrolyzer or Vaporizer to the Intake Manifold of the car.

9.   Two vacuum line hoses, 3.5 feet each. (DO NOT CUT THOSE ANY SHORTER, IT'S ONE OF THE SAFETY FEATURES IN THE SYSTEM!)

10.  Optional: Installation hardware: Bungee cords and cable straps.

11.  Optional: Catalyst (sometimes called “Electrolyte” but actually the electrolyte is the correct term for the catalyst PLUS water) – this is the very SAFE household Baking Soda: the typical kit should have a bag of catalyst to get you started. It completes the kit to be ‘Just Add Water.’ The electrolyte is what helps the electricity separate water into HHO. Distilled water alone does not conduct electricity so nothing would happen without this Electrolyte.

The typical bag is 3.8 oz and is enough for 6-10 months of normal driving, and more can be obtained cheaply at almost any grocery store in the world.

LET'S GET FAMILIAR WITH THE ELECTROLYZER

The Electrolyzer is the heart of the system, that generates HHO and cools down the engine:

The Pressure Release Valve is the most misunderstood.  It is there for safety reasons only.  In normal operation, it is dormant, inactive. This is a "check valve", meaning it will allow air/liquid flow in one direction only.  In our application, we glue it on top of the device POINTING UPWARD.  It will let air flow OUT but not in. Why?

In normal operation the engine sucks all the HHO out of the device.  Just in case the engine stops doing that, or for some reason there is blockage of the output hose, we DO NOT WANT PRESSURE BUILDUP inside the device, because the HHO might explode.  If pressure starts to build up inside (water expands into gas) the Pressure Release Valve will release the pressure into the atmosphere (once HHO mixes with air, it will not be explosive any more).

So again, this is a check valve pointing upward - or in other words letting flow out of the device but not in.  In normal operation the vacuum inside the device will make sure that the Pressure Release Valve stays closed at all times.

INSTALLATION
Additional Items to have before Installation

Mount the HHO Generator device in the engine compartment. It should be mounted flat and level, and secured is such a manner as to assure that it cannot bounce around when the vehicle hits bumps etc. Position the device so that it can easily be accessed and can be conveniently removed and filled with water, or cleaned, serviced or inspected.

IMPORTANT: INSTALL THE DEVICE AWAY FROM HOT AREAS as much as possible. If you're not sure where that is, Harbor Freight Tools has a digital non-contact thermometer for under $7 (item 93983-2VGA). Use this tool to locate the coolest available place in the engine area.

I cannot give you an exact number here for what is “too hot”, because there is a combination of heating factors here: weather, engine, and the electrolysis process itself. All I can tell you that in two cases the Electrolyzer mostly melted and only the glass survived. In both cases this occurred as a result of (1) too much heat radiated by the engine through the air to the Electrolyzer, and (2) too much electrolyte. There is a situation called Thermal Runaway, where an increase in temperature changes the conditions (in this case the rise in electrical current) that causes a further increase in temperature - leading to a destructive result.

You can prevent this from happening by:

1.      Use ONLY DISTILLED WATER. Filtered water are NOT distilled water!

2.      Starting with no more than ½ teaspoon of baking soda, and add gradiently only when you're sure no excess heat is being generated.

3.      Install away from heat. If this is not possible block the engine heat as much as possible by placing a heat shield (bubble wrap covered by aluminum foil) between the Electrolyzer and the engine. Leave at least 1-2” air space around the Electrolyzer.

A mounting bracket can be easily fashioned from copper and/or galvanized plumber’s strap. (Not supplied.) In other cases a small rubber pad (not supplied and usually not necessary) and/or two bungee cords (supplied) may be adequate.

Rarely there may be vehicles that do not have enough space in the engine compartment to mount the device. A possible solution is to use the area in front of the radiator. Fasten the device to the car's frame or anything other the radiator, belts or moving parts, and make sure that it does not touch the radiator.

That's it for the mechanical installation and location. Now let's move for connections and supply lines. The HHO Generator device is operated by vacuum pressure from your vehicle’s engine, plus 12 Volt supply from your vehicle’s electrical system.

STEP 1. VACUUM CONNECTION

As shown in the vacuum diagram below, vacuum lines are supplied from the engine to various car systems, and you should best use the system that gets the highest vacuum. The idea is to suck the HHO into a place such as the carburetor or the intake manifold, where it can be automatically mixed with the existing fuel/air mixture.

VACUUM CONNECTION – DUAL SUPPLY

The reason for the dual supply (dual HHO output) is that when the engine is idling, there is a high vacuum pressure in the intake manifold.  This pressure drops when you accelerate or rev up the engine to higher RPM.  At that moment, more vacuum is available in the air intake for sucking up the HHO gas into the engine.  It may save a bit more gasoline but I don't find it critical, so it's up to you if you want to use the dual supply.

Switching between supply lines happens by itself and no control mechanism is necessary.

Refer to the Vacuum Diagram below. In this setup a SECOND line is connected from the device to the air intake of the engine.  Use a universal vacuum line T-Connector (second one not provided) to make the connection.  To connect the second pipe to the air intake or air filter housing, use a brass fitting (Harbor Freight sells 5 “Brass Couplers”, item 34704-0VGA, for $1.99, that's 40 cents apiece, see photo).

In later models, we have built this duality right into the system, so you should have two vacuum hoses coming out of the device. That's why you only get one Vacuum-T Connector, because the other one is not necessary. Connect one output to the carb/intake manifold, and the other one to the air filter.  If you're not using the other output, plug it with a bolt or rubber cap.

Optionally, drill a 3/16” hole and glue a plastic coupling (barb coupling used for irrigation) into the duct or filter housing.

Some people install one-way valves (“check valves”) on both supply lines, i.e., on the two outputs of the second T-connector. But in our experience MPG was better without the valves (seemingly the valves obstruct free flow so less HHO reaches the engine).




 

CAUTION: DO NOT USE THE BRAKES VACUUM LINE. This is usually a very thick black hose that connects between the engine and the Brake Vacuum Booster (usually a large drum on the firewall on the driver side):



With the engine briefly on, you should be able to detect substantial vacuum pressure coming from the line you are connecting to.  If you want to know exactly, and especially if you’re going to install more than one device, a good vacuum gauge is available at Harbor Freight Tools for about $10 (www.harborfreight.com or phone 843-676-2603), see more details in the chapter “Maintenance”. 

WARNING: DO NOT SHORTEN THE VACUUM LINE between the engine intake and the jar. Keep the line (hose) at least 4 ft long. This length must be kept to enhance safety and prevent damage to the device.

A universal vacuum line T-Connector is provided as well as a length of vacuum hose to make the connection.  A wide range of vacuum fittings is readily available at any auto parts store (plastic fittings will do for this use).

Note that the Universal Vacuum T-Connector is...well, universal.  Its edges are usually too small for the hose, and should be trimmed (edge cut off) with a knife (see picture below) exactly 0.4 inches.  This is recommended because the small opening obstructs gas flow for nothing.  This is not mandatory, yet it will help improve performance.

Cut at shown places for a ¼” hose. Cut larger or smaller sections, according to the hoses you're using at each end.

The photo below shows the hose connection setup I used in the Toyota Corolla. The vacuum -T at the center receives a SINGLE HHO FEED from the Electrolyzer.  It then feeds (to the right) the air filter box, and (to the left) the intake manifold.  The parts encircled in red are the two check valves that I removed from the Electrolyzer outputs and moved forward to here (doing the same function here of preventing backflows).

The reason behind this setup was that the air filter is very close to the manifold, and eliminated the extra hose.  Didn't save money because I had to buy 2 extra T's for $4, but I think it's neat and easy to maintain.

The yellow arrows in the photo above indicate the correct direction of the check valves (in the red circles).

STEP 2. ELECTRICAL:

The device is designed to operate on 12 Volts.  Refer to the wiring diagram below.  If you’re not sure consult your auto mechanic (electric), or contact us for help.

1.      Connect the black terminal of the device to the negative terminal of the vehicle’s battery, using the wire WITHOUT FUSE (black wire). If the battery is too far, connect it to the firewall or extend the wire all the way to the battery.

2.      Identify a point in your vehicle’s electrical system which has 12 Volts (positive) present ONLY WHEN THE ENGINE IS ON (Position 2 of the Ignition Switch), such as the starter solenoid, window wiper motor, or similar circuit.

3.      Turn the switch off and take out the key.  Connect positive (12 Volts) to the red terminal of the device, using the FUSED wire supplied (red), to the point you’ve identified above.

4.      To protect the wiring from long term damage, you can now put the newly installed wires into what's called “split flex tubing”, see photo.  You can find it in all major hardware stores such as Ace, Home depot.  Don't buy it online ($5 +S&H) because in the shop it's only 99 cents for 10 ft.

NOTES:

·         In most newer vehicles the fuses are located in a box in the engine compartment.  I just plug the wire into the fuse holder and reinsert the fuse.  Usually it is a 10 Amp or 15 Amp ignition circuit.  In some older cars where there was no fuse box to connect to, the wiper motor was found most useful as a supply point.  I just splice into the SWITCHED 12 Volts and it works well.

·         In some cars the electrical system may be in reverse (RED wire to the body of the car, or to the battery itself).  If it gets confusing, consult an auto electrician who is familiar with your specific model.

The installation will now look something like this.  Note the absence of bottom support – the jar is hanging on the edge of the washer fluid reservoir. Never fell down no matter the road/speed. The bungees are pretty tight but still allow for easy removal of the device without removing any of the bungees.

STEP 3. FINAL SETUP:

Fill the jar with DISTILLED WATER, leaving 1” of free space at the top.  Add ¼ teaspoon of Electrolyte (pure Baking Soda).  Close the jar.

Adding 1 teaspoon of Electrolyte will generate much more HHO (hydrogen-oxygen mixture) but may blow the 5A fuse, in which case you should replace it with a higher rating fuse (15 Amps works for us, see notes on fuse selection below). THE JAR MAY GET HOT BUT THE JAR WON’T CRACK - BUT LET IT COOL OFF BEFORE ADDING COLD WATER OR ATTEMPTING ANY MAINTENANCE ACTION.
Inspect the installation visually. Make sure all electrical connections are tight (HAND FORCE ONLY) and the lid is screwed tight on the jar.

FUSE SELECTION
We have found the 5 Amps useful for moderate production of HHO – using ¼ teaspoon of Electrolyte for 1 quart of water (with 12 Volts it will draw about 1-1.3 Amp). For higher HHO production mix 1 flat teaspoon of Electrolyte into 1 quart of water, and replace the fuse with an 8 Amp to 30 Amp fuse (the device will draw 2-3 Amps in idling).

You may choose to experiment with up to 1.5 teaspoons of Baking Soda (per Quart) but watch out for possible device overheating, especially in hot weather!  If the device overheats, lower the ratio of Electrolyte to water. 

STEP 4. ADJUSTMENT:

1.      Start with NO electricity, by taking out the fuse or leaving one of the terminals disconnected (make sure it doesn't touch metal parts of the car to prevent fuse blowout).

2.      Turn the Vacuum Adjustment Valve (sometimes called “Bubbler Cap” or just “Bubbler”) fully CLOCKWISE. Then turn it half-turn COUNTER-CLOCKWISE.

3.      Turn the engine and watch the bubbling action coming out of the lower end of the thin tubing inside the device (here by the way is the great advantage of having a strong glass jar instead of metal or non clear plastic – total transparency and visibility!) Gradually turn the Vacuum Adjustment Valve and watch the bubbling action in the jar. Adjust the valve until there is a small amount of bubbling action.

4.      Turn off the engine.

5.      Connect the electricity by putting the fuse on and making sure all connections are tight (hand force only).

6.      Start the engine again and watch the electrolyzing action between the spiral electrodes.  A yellowish gas (HHO) will start forming and flow toward the top of the jar.

7.      Within a short time (roughly 30 seconds), you will notice that the engine starts to sound quite differently.  It will sound smoother and quieter.  Its RPM may be unstable for a couple minutes. This is normal – the HHO is starting to change the combustion cycle and cancels the pinging – and the engine is now adjusting to the changes.

8.      In some of our road experiments, we’ve noticed better performance and higher MPG with the bubbling totally shut off, but as far as I know it's safer to leave some bubbling even if very low, because it keeps the HHO moist at all times.

Do your tests and please tell us the results (gdaddy8801@yahoo.com). The broader the experiment base, the more certainty there will be on the best overall tuning.

Congratulations! Your HHO Development system is now ready to go! Enjoy it.

SYSTEM MAINTENANCE

SEVERE WARNING

Before attempting ANY maintenance on this system, turn the engine OFF and make sure that the device(s) are DISCONNECTED from the 12 Volt supply, by turning the ignition key fully off AND pulling the in-line fuse out. Do this even when “only” filling out water – otherwise the electrodes might short circuit to the car’s body or another system, possibly causing damage or fire hazard.

PERIODIC MAINTENANCE

Check the jar once a week or so, to get a feel for how quickly the water is used up. Depending on your driving and engine, the water may last for two months or more. Visually inspect the system for leaks, cracks, loose wires or anything unusual.

WHY USE MULTI-CELL?

Generally speaking, you need one HHO Cell Generator for every two liters of engine size.  Of course, this depends on the liters per hour the HHO generator produces, but this rule applies to the normal Water4gas HHO generator design.

The description below is borrowed from Patrick Kelly's document “D9.PDF”

The current flowing through the cell determines its HHO production.  This is an absolutely key factor in gas production, and one of the most difficult to control accurately and economically.  The greater the current, the greater the rate of gas production.  The current is controlled by the concentration of Baking Soda in the water and the voltage across the cell.  The voltage across the cell has limited effect as it reaches a maximum at 1.24 volts.  Up to that point, an increase in voltage causes an increase in gas production rate.  Once the voltage gets over this limit, increasing it further produces no further increase in the rate of gas production.

If the voltage is increased above 1.24 volts, the extra voltage goes to heat the water.  This can be a slight advantage, but not much. (The advantage is that heat creates more water vapor which is good for cooling down the engine.)

Let's look at the math.  We'll simplify it here for the sake of understanding.  Assume that the current through the cell is 2 amps.  In that case, the power used to produce gas is 2 amps x 1.24 volts = 2.48 watts.  When the engine is running, the voltage at the car's battery terminals will be about 13.8 volts as the alternator provides the extra voltage to drive current into the battery.  The excess voltage applied to the cell is about 1.24 less than that, or 12.56 volts.

The power which heats the electrolyte is now 12.56 volts x 2 amps = 25.12 watts.  That is more than ten times the power being used to produce gas!  This is very inefficient.  The following diagram will help you understand the situation.

In short: The more cells, the less heat and more HHO.  Or, more correctly, higher energy efficiency for HHO production.  This is true up to 6 or 7 cells max.

So the best way to reduce heat and increase HHO production is to reduce the voltage applied to the cell by using more than one cell, or in other words several cells connected in a daisy-chain across the battery. 

Conclusion: With two cells, each will get about 7 volts across it and the gas production will be doubled.  In this case, the power used to produce gas is still 2 amps x 1.24 volts = 2.48 watts for each cell.  But now, only 13.8 volts / 2 cells in series  = 6.9 volts.  Subtract 1.24 volts to create HHO which leaves only 5.66 volts to heat each cell instead of 12.56 volts with a single cell. This represents a 55% reduction in heat producing voltage and 100% increase in HHO production. 

 If space in the engine compartment allows, a chain of six cells can be used which means each receives about two volts and the waste power is reduced to an absolute minimum - while the gas production is six times higher.

With the higher rate of gas production, it would probably be possible to reduce the chosen current flowing through the cell (good for smaller batteries and alternators such as in gas scooters and go carts).  Also, with six cells, the amount of water is six times greater and so there will be less concentrating of the electrolyte due to the water being used up.

Let's summarize the benefits of the multi-cell setup:

1. Multiply HHO production,
2. Reduce heat,
3. More water stored in the system.

DETAILED SETUP

The setup recommended above is called a "Series-Cell" arrangement.  The Diagram below displays an array of two Water4Gas cells.  It is blown up for details, so you'll know exactly what to do at each point. Yet any number of cells can be built in accordance with the same diagram. Just add more “B” cells and connected them all in series as shown.

The output doesn't have to be double - you may choose to feed only the carburetor, or only the air filter, etc.  It is recommended to glue the vacuum hose into the bubbler input (Goop glue for best flexibility).  For easier maintenance make sure there is a barb coupling on the hose between adjacent cells, otherwise it would be hard to take off the lid for maintenance.